Last updated 09:22, Saturday, 26 July 2008

Before I met Gary Rhodes, I had already seen what was underneath his chef’s whites.

Chef Gary Rhodes in China

In what seemed an out-of-character move by the chef, his bare torso recently graced countless magazines and newspapers in a rather risque photo shoot.

But it must be said the 4am sessions in the gym have paid off for the 48-year-old, who, even when filming his new TV show in China, worked out everyday to keep himself in shape.

Sitting in his hotel in Chengdu during a break from filming UKTV Food’s Rhodes Across China, he dismisses his pin-up status, although audience members have been known to shout, ‘Take your shirt off’ at him during food demonstrations.

“Time has moved on. Sometimes I get the most gorgeous women coming up to me, but they say, ‘You’re my mum’s favourite.’ I’ll leave the pin-up image to the Gordons and the Jamies,” he says.

However, he reckons even Gordon should keep that chest of his under wraps, adding: “Gordon, stop taking off your bloody shirt! Just because your initials are GR doesn’t mean you’re Gary Rhodes!”

But despite the jibe, it’s clear he holds the F-Word star in high esteem, saying he’s one of the ‘true masters’ in the business.

Yet it’s Gary who is known as the ‘chef’s chef’ for his dedication to the job and he’s justly proud of his hard-earned reputation in the industry.

“I feel very privileged to be given that title,” he says. “The one thing I have always managed to maintain from what I call the true professionals – and by that I mean the Roux brothers and the Ramsays who are the true masters in this country – is a respect. No matter what I’ve done on TV, no matter how good or bad it’s been, they know that I am a true, professional chef.

“With my latest restaurant Rhodes W1 achieving a Michelin star – I got my first star 22 years ago – six stars later it has shown that no matter what, I never give up on what I first set out to do.

“If everything came to an end for me, the one thing I’d never let go of is the industry and the restaurants.”

As I watch him film the series you can see why he’s still at the top of his game. His enthusiasm for experiencing new flavours never seems to wane, no matter where he is.

It was a far cry from crisp white tablecloths and sommeliers when I first met Gary. He was sat in a doorway at a Szechuan pepper market in Chengdu, eating a bowl of food that cost 30p from a cart. It’s hot, dirty and it smells a little like something has died nearby, yet Gary is the picture of contentment as he enthuses about the food. He’s nearing the end of his trip to China when we meet and yet he seems to have lost none of his passion for the sights, sounds and most importantly tastes he has discovered on this trip.

“It is really a melting pot of variety, a country of pure variety. It’s exciting; I love the fact you can eat so differently,” he says. “I am glad I’ve seen China. It was good to see the true, true way of life, to see little markets and little towns and see how everybody is living.”

In his new show, Gary hopes to bring home a taste of what the country has to offer. Following on from his successful Rhodes Across India programme, this two-week series charts his culinary journey across the sprawling nation, from the spicy dishes of Szechuan to the Imperial cuisine of Beijing.

He took along with him two UKTV Food viewers as apprentices, Melissa Syers and Teresa Tsang, who were chosen because they have links to the country. He chose China as a destination because its food is so popular in the UK, but the dishes cooked on the trip are a far cry from chicken fried rice and prawn crackers. But although authentic, the recipes have been tailored so viewers can easily find the ingredients in the UK.

On the trip, Gary left any previous experience of Chinese food at home as he says he didn’t want to arrive with any preconceptions.

“I didn’t do any research. I feel an awful lot of Chinese books – and I have a few – are written for the Western world so I decided to shut the door on them.

“I want to be taught. I don’t want to go along thinking I know this and I know that. I don’t. It’s not my style of cooking.

“The only thing I know about Chinese food is how to scoff it and lots of it because I adore it!”

This show marks Gary’s 20th year on the screen, after making his TV debut back in 1988. Countless series, books and restaurants later, he is still going strong. There’s already talk of another Rhodes Across... programme in the pipeline. But where next on his travels?

He says: “We are talking about possibly the Caribbean, going from island to island. The good thing about that is that every island has its own style of cooking.

“But Brazil would be great as well and Mexico has been mentioned. I hadn’t thought about that, but it would be amazing.”

n Rhodes Across China begins on Monday July 28 on UKTV Food.